This week, we’re in Berlin with chef René Frank, founder of CODA. His restaurant holds two Michelin stars and is widely regarded as one of the world’s most original dining experiences, with a menu inspired by desserts and pastry. Most recently, René was named The World’s Best Pastry Chef by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and Best Pastry Chef by The Best Chef Awards.

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Below, the local chef shares his favorite restaurants in Berlin, the places he recommends to visiting chefs, his favorite wine bars, where to find the city’s best sweets and pastries, and more.

A Google Map with all of the recommendations is provided at the end of the interview.

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There are hotels that stay with you because of one thing: an exceptional spa, a great restaurant, an unforgettable setting. The Dolder Grand is one of the rare hotels that has it all.

It is, without question, one of the most special hotels I’ve ever stayed at.

The hotel sits high above Zurich, surrounded by forest, with views stretching across the city, Lake Zurich and, on a clear day, all the way to the Alps. Yet it’s less than 20 minutes from central Zurich.

Once you arrive, though, it feels like a secluded resort in the middle of nature. You can spend the morning walking through the forest, the afternoon inside one of Europe’s most impressive hotel spas and the evening having dinner at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant, all while still being only minutes from the city.

And the arrival alone is memorable. As you wind your way uphill through the trees and the Dolder finally comes into view, with its pale façade and three distinctive towers rising above the forest, there is a real wow factor. It looks less like a city hotel and more like a castle from a storybook. It’s like entering a fairy tale.

But what impressed me most during my stay wasn’t just the architecture. It was how many things the Dolder does exceptionally well.

Luxury hotels often have one clear strength. You go to one for its spa, another for its restaurants, another for its location. At the Dolder, there is serious fine dining, a world-class wellness program, an art collection that could almost constitute a small museum, an extensive array of outdoor activities, and restaurants compelling enough that I would recommend them even if you weren’t staying at the hotel.

Setting & Location

The Dolder dates back to 1899, and much of its original character is still visible throughout the hotel, especially in the grand lobby and main building, with its soaring ceilings, ornate architectural details and sense of old-world grandeur. More than a century later, the original building was beautifully restored and expanded with two contemporary wings.

Calling the Dolder a Zurich hotel doesn’t quite capture its setting. Technically, you are in the city. Experientially, you feel as though you have escaped it, surrounded by forest high above central Zurich. And this means that you don’t have to choose between Zurich and a resort. You get both.

What’s also important to know is that getting into town is also much easier than the setting suggests. The hotel operates a complimentary shuttle between the property and central Zurich every 20 minutes. If you’re visiting Zurich primarily to shop, dine and spend every waking hour walking around the center, there are more convenient addresses. But if you want to experience Zurich and still feel that you’ve actually gone away, I think the Dolder’s location is difficult to beat.

Rooms & Suites

The contrast between old and new continues in the rooms and suites. Rooms and suites are spread between the historic main building and the contemporary wings, so the design changes depending on where you stay.

Of course, the rooms are as pampering as you can imagine, with plush king-size beds, luxurious toiletries, spacious sitting areas, separate showers and whirlpool bathtubs, and the list goes on. I stayed in a Junior Suite, and for me, the biggest highlight was the view. From the balcony, I could look directly over the Dolder’s fairy-tale entrance and out across Zurich, all the way to the Swiss Alps. The view is so beautiful, you could spend all day just looking at it.

Dining

Food isn’t an amenity at the Dolder. It is one of the reasons to come.

The hotel has four major restaurants and the Canvas Bar & Lounge. The Restaurant holds two Michelin stars and 19 GaultMillau points, MIKURIYA has 17 GaultMillau points, blooms has 16, and Saltz has 15.

During my stay, I ate at The Restaurant, Saltz and blooms. If you are in Zurich and love fine dining, I think The Restaurant is an absolute must, whether you are staying at the Dolder Grand or not.

The dining room is beautiful and classically elegant, with sweeping views high above Zurich. As you would expect at this level, the cooking is extremely precise. Every course felt meticulously executed, and the service operated at the level you expect from a two-star restaurant. But those weren’t the things I remembered most.

The wine pairing was the best I’ve ever had at a fine-dining restaurant, and I’ve been to more than a few. The wines were unbelievably delicious, and each one brought something different to the dish. It made the entire experience that much better.

The second surprise was the warmth. There are fine-dining restaurants where everything is technically perfect, yet you remain very aware that you are participating in a formal production. This didn’t feel that way. The experience at The Restaurant felt so personal and relaxed, almost as though we had been invited into someone’s home.

That is not something I’ve experienced at a restaurant operating at this level, and it was one of the reasons the meal was so special.

For guests who want an even more intimate experience, there is also a Chef’s Table inside the kitchen, where diners can watch Chef Heiko Nieder’s team prepare the meal from close range.

Breakfast was another highlight of my stay, and truthfully, I think it deserves far more attention than hotel breakfast usually gets.

I’ve stayed at several high-end hotels in Zurich, and I haven’t experienced another breakfast in the city like this one.

The spread at Saltz is enormous and generous: beautiful Swiss cheeses, fruits, juices, breads, pastries and everything you would expect from a serious breakfast buffet, supplemented by à-la-carte options. It isn’t just about having a huge amount of food; the quality is there across the board.

For the best experience, I recommend sitting on the terrace if the weather permits.

I haven’t eaten breakfast at every luxury hotel in Zurich, so I can’t claim to have tested them all. But among those I have experienced, this is the best hotel breakfast I’ve had in the city.

And importantly, you do not need to be staying at the Dolder to eat here. If you are visiting Zurich and want a beautiful breakfast experience, I would absolutely come up to the Dolder for it.

Saltz also functions as the hotel’s everyday restaurant, open from breakfast through dinner. During our stay, the food was excellent, there was a great children’s menu, and the wine and Champagne selection meant that it worked equally well for a family lunch or a more leisurely dinner.

Blooms, where Chef Heiko is also the chef, is completely different. I guarantee this is one of the most enchanting places you’ll ever have a meal. You are sitting outside at the edge of the forest, among vegetable beds, herbs and fruit bushes, many of which provide ingredients for the restaurant. The vegetarian and vegan menu focuses on regional, seasonal produce.

Of course, each of the dishes was delicious, but it’s the surroundings that make the experience so memorable. It’s intimate, quiet and incredibly beautiful, with the garden and forest becoming as much a part of the meal as the food itself.

Note that blooms is seasonal and entirely outdoors, this means that the schedule changes by the season and it only operates in dry weather.

For something more casual, Canvas Bar & Lounge is the place to see and be seen. Located just behind the lobby, it has a beautiful indoor lounge and, when the weather is good, an even better terrace.

It works equally well for coffee and dessert in the afternoon or cocktails later on. The hotel’s pastry team makes cakes, pastries and macarons in-house, including the signature Dolder Torte, and Canvas was named Switzerland’s best hotel bar in 2023.

But if the weather allows, I would absolutely sit outside. The terrace is one of the best places in the hotel for people-watching. Order a coffee, a glass of Champagne or a cocktail and watch the almost endless procession of extraordinary cars pulling up to the Dolder’s castle-like entrance.

Facilities & Activities

The award-winning Dolder Grand Spa is another reason the Dolder stands apart. At 4,000 square meters, it is enormous and ranks among the best hotel wellness spaces in Europe.

There is a 25-meter indoor swimming pool, indoor and outdoor whirlpools, steam rooms, relaxation areas and an outdoor terrace. The Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Spa areas each include their own sauna, steam bath, aroma pool, plunge pool and foot-bath facilities.

The important thing to know is that this isn’t a spa you visit only because you’ve booked a massage. You can easily spend half a day here without booking a single treatment. You can relax on the lounge chairs inside by the swimming pool, or head outdoors to the lounge chairs overlooking the surrounding forest. The spa is an experience in itself.

What’s also very convenient is that the spa is open from 6 a.m. until 10 p.m., while hotel guests can access the fitness center 24 hours a day.

The Dolder is also a dream if you like to stay active when you travel. The gym is, of course, state-of-the-art, with Technogym machines, but some of the best options are right outside. Walk out of the building and you are in the forest. There are hiking and walking trails around the property, dedicated running routes, complimentary e-bikes and mountain bikes, nearby tennis and a nine-hole golf course. You can see the hotel’s full range of outdoor activities and Destination Dolder facilities here.

Art

The Dolder has one of the world’s most impressive art collections for a hotel. There are more than 100 works by around 90 artists throughout the property, including pieces by Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró, Keith Haring, Takashi Murakami and Fernando Botero. And what’s unique is that the art isn’t simply there as hotel decoration.

You see it everywhere as you walk through the property—through the lobby, on your way to dinner or even near the spa.

A nice touch is that the hotel encourages guests to actually engage with the collection. The artworks have QR codes that allow you to learn more about each artist and piece as you walk around. You can also explore the Dolder’s art and architecture collection before your stay.

My Recommendation

The Dolder Grand is one of the most special hotels I’ve ever stayed at. What makes it so unique is that you don’t have to choose between the things you typically look for in a luxury hotel: city or nature, serious dining or serious wellness, history or modern luxury.

You are surrounded by forest, with Zurich only minutes away. You have one of Europe’s most impressive hotel spas, exceptional restaurants, beautiful rooms and a level of facilities that makes it possible to spend days here without leaving.

If you want to experience Zurich while still feeling like you’ve escaped somewhere completely different, this is the hotel I would choose. The Dolder Grand gives you all of it.

Few hotels are as closely connected to their destination as Badrutt’s Palace is to St. Moritz. With its instantly recognizable tower rising above Lake St. Moritz, the hotel has become one of the defining images of the town.

The location is exceptional. Badrutt’s Palace sits in the center of St. Moritz on Via Serlas, surrounded by the town’s luxury boutiques and within walking distance of restaurants, cafés, and the lake. At the same time, the hotel overlooks the mountains and the beautiful Engadin Valley, so the experience never feels overly urban.

The views are absolutely breathtaking. From the lake-facing side of the hotel, you can see across Lake St. Moritz toward the forests, mountains, and small villages scattered throughout the valley. The scenery changes constantly depending on the weather and time of day, from bright blue water and clear mountain views to clouds hanging low over the lake.

But it is the hotel itself that makes the greatest first impression.

Badrutt’s Palace is an immediate wow from the moment you walk through the doors. The entrance is grand and dramatic, with soaring ceilings, dark wood, chandeliers, antique furniture, enormous flower arrangements, and beautiful historic details everywhere you look.

Many hotels take time to reveal what makes them special. At Badrutt’s Palace, you understand immediately.

Location & Setting

Originally opened in 1896, the hotel has welcomed generations of royalty, actors, artists, and some of the world’s most prominent families. Alfred Hitchcock was a regular guest, and former guests have also included Audrey Hepburn, Charlie Chaplin, Marlene Dietrich, and Coco Chanel.

What I loved most, however, is that Badrutt’s has retained its original personality. It feels wonderfully old-school in a way that has become extremely rare. So many historic hotels have been renovated until almost everything distinctive about them has disappeared. Badrutt’s Palace has evolved over the years, but it has not sacrificed its identity.

The hotel is filled with carved ceilings, tapestries, antique furnishings, archival photographs, fireplaces, chandeliers, and rich wood paneling. There is no attempt to make every space feel neutral, minimalist, or fashionable. You could never mistake it for another hotel.

The heart of the property is Le Grand Hall, often described as the living room of St. Moritz. The enormous room overlooks the lake and mountains and is filled with comfortable seating, beautiful flowers, and live music.

Despite its grandeur, Le Grand Hall is not simply a formal lobby guests walk through. It is somewhere people genuinely spend time. Guests gather for coffee, lunch, afternoon tea, cocktails, and light meals throughout the day, often remaining for hours.

That balance between grandeur and comfort is one of the things Badrutt’s does exceptionally well. The hotel feels glamorous and full of occasion, but it never made us feel uncomfortable arriving with a five-year-old and a 14-month-old.

The hotel also begins taking care of you before you arrive. Ahead of our stay, the team called me to discuss restaurant reservations and help arrange activities for the children. I did not have to chase the concierge, research every option myself, or arrive only to discover that the restaurants or Kids Club were already fully booked.

That level of pre-arrival attention set the tone for our entire stay. Badrutt’s Palace understands that true luxury is not only about how beautiful a hotel looks. It is also about anticipating what guests might need and making the entire trip feel effortless.

Accommodations

Badrutt’s Palace offers two different styles of accommodations: the classically designed rooms and suites inside the original palace and the much newer accommodations in the Serlas Wing.

The rooms in the historic palace are more traditional, with elegant paneling, soft colors, beautiful fabrics, and decorative details that feel connected to the age and character of the hotel. They are grand without feeling excessively formal and have the kind of personality you expect from a hotel with this much history.

The newer Serlas Wing was designed by Italian architect Antonio Citterio and offers a much more contemporary interpretation of Alpine luxury. Its rooms and suites feel more residential and understated, with natural materials, clean architectural lines, and Loro Piana fabrics used throughout the interiors.

The Serlas Wing is located across the road but is connected to the original palace by an underground passage. The passage also provides easy access to Chesa Veglia and the luxury boutiques along Via Serlas, which is particularly useful during the cold and snow of winter.

The contrast between the two buildings allows guests to choose between two very different experiences. I would recommend the original palace for travelers who want to feel completely immersed in the history and old-world atmosphere of Badrutt’s. Those who prefer more modern and understated accommodations may be happier in the Serlas Wing.

Regardless of which building you choose, I would prioritize a lake-facing room whenever possible. The views over Lake St. Moritz and the mountains are such an important part of the experience that I think they are worth choosing over additional interior space.

Room categories range from double rooms to enormous multi-bedroom suites. Many suites can be connected to additional rooms, making the hotel particularly practical for families and multi-generational trips. Suites also include butler service.

For a hotel this historic, the accommodations are exceptionally comfortable and functional. The rooms provide generous storage, beautiful bathrooms, extremely comfortable beds, and twice-daily housekeeping.

But while the rooms are suitably luxurious, Badrutt’s Palace is much more than a hotel where you spend most of the trip inside your accommodation. The public spaces, restaurants, spa, pool, and children’s facilities are such a major part of the experience that you will probably spend very little time in your room.

Dining

I have sometimes found the food at luxury hotels in Switzerland disappointing, particularly in relation to the prices. The hotels themselves may be beautiful, but the food has not always been especially memorable.

That was absolutely not the case at Badrutt’s Palace.

The food throughout our stay was amazing, and one of the restaurants worked so perfectly for our family that we ended up eating there every day.

La Diala is located in the Palace Wellness area, close to the pool and directly beside the Palazzino Kids Club. In summer, guests can eat outside on the restaurant’s beautiful terrace overlooking the gardens, lake, and mountains.

We had both lunch and dinner there every day.

The menu focuses on fresh Mediterranean food, including salads, soups, pasta dishes, and a selection of fresh juices and drinks. The food feels light and healthy enough to enjoy after the pool but is still satisfying and genuinely delicious.

The outdoor setting is absolutely beautiful, but with two young children, the location was equally important. We could move easily between the restaurant, pool, playground, and Kids Club without having to bring everyone through the entire hotel each time.

La Diala is open from late morning until the early evening during the summer season, which also makes it particularly convenient for families who prefer to eat dinner early. Its name means “mountain fairy” in Romansh, and the restaurant is specifically designed to be family-friendly, with its own outdoor playground.

Normally, when a hotel has numerous restaurants, I want to try as many as possible. At Badrutt’s, La Diala was so convenient, the terrace was so enjoyable, and the food was so consistently good that we were genuinely happy to return every day.

The hotel also has an impressive collection of other restaurants and bars.

Breakfast is served at Le Restaurant, a grand dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Lake St. Moritz and the mountains. The breakfast experience feels wonderfully old-school, complete with live harp music.

The buffet includes an extensive selection of pastries, breads, fruit, cheeses, smoked fish, yogurts, cereals, and options for children, while eggs and other hot dishes can be ordered from the kitchen. The room itself makes breakfast feel like an occasion, and it is worth leaving enough time to enjoy it properly rather than rushing out for the day.

Le Grand Hall serves lunch, afternoon tea, drinks, and light meals throughout the day. Even if you do not have a full meal there, it is worth stopping for coffee or a glass of wine simply to experience the atmosphere.

Across the road from the main hotel is Chesa Veglia, a historic Engadin farmhouse containing several dining spaces. Pizzeria Heuboden is located in the former hayloft and serves wood-fired pizzas, pastas, and Italian classics in a cozy, rustic setting.

For a more formal dinner, Le Relais serves contemporary French cuisine in a romantic Belle Époque dining room overlooking the lake. The restaurant is also known for its traditional tableside service.

La Coupole–Matsuhisa is located beneath the glass dome of the hotel’s former indoor tennis hall and serves Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s signature Japanese-Peruvian cuisine. The menu includes sushi, sashimi, tiraditos, black cod, and a selection of hot dishes.

The hotel also operates Paradiso Mountain Club & Restaurant, located high above St. Moritz and reached by chairlift, hiking, or e-bike. It is known for its expansive mountain views and lively atmosphere.

There are enough restaurants at Badrutt’s Palace that guests could easily dine somewhere different every day. I would, however, make reservations in advance, particularly during the busiest periods.

Again, this is something the hotel handled beautifully. The team contacted me before our arrival and helped organize the restaurant reservations most suitable for our family. Instead of spending the first day of the trip figuring out where we could eat with the children, everything had already been arranged.

Facilities & Experiences

The facilities at Badrutt’s Palace are exceptional, but the pool is easily one of the greatest highlights of the entire hotel.

Palace Wellness has a 25-meter indoor pool connected to an outdoor infinity pool overlooking the surrounding trees and mountains. The indoor section is built around a dramatic natural granite rock, but it is the heated outdoor section that makes the pool so special.

The outdoor pool is heated to approximately 35 degrees Celsius, meaning that you can enjoy it even when the weather outside is freezing.

St. Moritz can be very cold even during the summer, and the weather in the mountains can change quickly. But because the water is kept so warm, the pool is not dependent on having a beautiful, sunny day.

Swimming outside in perfectly warm water with the cold Alpine air around you and views of the mountains is unforgettable. The pool is truly to die for and one of the best hotel pools I have ever experienced.

Beyond the pools, Palace Wellness includes a Jacuzzi, saunas, steam facilities, relaxation areas, treatment rooms, and private spa suites. Treatments range from massages and facials to Ayurvedic therapies and beauty services.

There is also a Technogym fitness center, yoga, personal trainers, tennis courts, and a padel court. The Palace Coiffeur, the hotel’s longstanding hair salon, is another example of the old-school resort experience Badrutt’s has managed to preserve.

The most impressive family facility is the Palazzino Kids Club, which is probably the best hotel Kids Club I have ever come across.

I have stayed at many luxury hotels with children, and some Kids Clubs amount to little more than a small room with a few toys. Palazzino is completely different.

The space is large, bright, beautifully designed, and filled with activities children genuinely want to do. There are rooms for imaginative play, crafts and games, as well as areas for physical activity and a ball pit. During the summer, there is also an outdoor playground.

The supervised program is complimentary for hotel guests ages three to twelve and operates from morning until the evening, although advance reservations are required. Children younger than three can also use the facilities when accompanied by an adult.

The hours are incredibly generous and allow parents to use the spa, spend time at the pool, go shopping, or have lunch alone without having to arrange a separate babysitter each time.

The location of the Kids Club is also extremely well considered. It sits beside La Diala and close to the pool, meaning that families can spend much of the day within the same area of the hotel.

Our older child could enjoy the Kids Club while we remained nearby with the baby or had lunch outside at La Diala. That made the experience infinitely easier and more relaxing.

More than anything, the quality of Palazzino shows that the hotel takes families seriously. Children are not an afterthought at Badrutt’s Palace. The hotel has created facilities for them that are every bit as thoughtful and beautifully executed as those designed for adults.

The hotel’s attention to children also began before our arrival. When the team called me to help organize our restaurant reservations, they also discussed activities and arrangements for the children.

Traveling with young children involves so much planning that having the hotel proactively handle these details made a meaningful difference. By the time we arrived, the important reservations had already been arranged and we could simply begin enjoying the hotel.

That proactive, highly personal hospitality is part of what makes Badrutt’s Palace feel so wonderfully old-school. It is not only about the historic interiors, polished service, or grandeur of Le Grand Hall. It is about anticipating what guests need before they have to ask.

There is also an enormous amount to do beyond the hotel itself. Hiking and cycling routes begin nearby, and the concierge can arrange mountain bikes, road bikes, e-bikes, guides, and picnics. Guests can also go sailing, play golf, ride horses, try rafting or climbing, walk around Lake St. Moritz, explore the surrounding villages, or take the mountain railways and cable cars into the Engadin landscape.

During our stay, I met guests who were spending anywhere from two to five weeks at Badrutt’s Palace.

Initially, that sounded like a very long time to spend at one hotel. But after experiencing Badrutt’s, I completely understood it.

There is so much to do that it would be surprisingly easy to spend several weeks here without becoming bored. Between the pool, spa, Kids Club, restaurants, tennis and padel courts, and countless activities throughout the Engadin Valley, every day can feel completely different.

You can hike or bike through the mountains, spend an afternoon at the pool, have lunch outside at La Diala, walk around Lake St. Moritz, explore one of the neighboring villages, or simply remain at the hotel and enjoy Le Grand Hall.

I think this is extremely rare, even among the world’s best hotels. Many luxury properties are wonderful for two or three nights, but after that, you begin to feel ready to move on. Badrutt’s Palace is different. It has enough restaurants, facilities, activities, and atmosphere to sustain a much longer stay.

Meeting guests who were staying for two, three, and even five weeks may be the greatest testament to what the hotel has created. This is not simply a beautiful property that you experience for a few nights and then feel ready to leave. It is somewhere you can settle into, establish a routine, and continue discovering new things to do.

Badrutt’s Palace is one of the rare hotels that wows you the moment you enter and continues to impress throughout the stay. The pool is unforgettable, the Kids Club is one of the best I have ever encountered, the food is excellent, and the service begins before you even arrive.

But what makes the hotel truly special is its identity.

It feels like one of the last great old-school European palace hotels—a type of property that has become almost impossible to find. It has history, glamour, personality, and a real sense of occasion, yet it is also warm, fun, and incredibly welcoming to families.

Hotels like this are incredibly rare today. Badrutt’s Palace is not merely somewhere to stay while visiting St. Moritz. It is a destination in its own right and worth building an entire trip around.

This week, we’re in Vienna with Stefan Doubek, the chef behind the two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Doubek, and his partner, Nora Pein, who leads the restaurant’s front of house.

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Stefan spent years training in Vienna’s top kitchens, as well as at three-Michelin-starred Jordnær in Copenhagen, before he and Nora opened Restaurant Doubek. Within months of opening, the restaurant earned two Michelin stars, making Stefan one of the fastest chefs in Michelin history to earn two stars.

This is, without question, my favorite Vienna edition we’ve ever published. Stefan and Nora don’t just tell you where to eat—they teach you how to experience Vienna like a local. From mixing your own Spritzer (Austria’s classic wine spritzer) at vineyards inside the city to ordering Vienna’s most iconic dishes the way locals do (which most tourists get wrong); every recommendation comes with the exact dish to order, the exact cut of meat to ask for, or even the exact phrase to say.

In this edition, Stefan and Nora share:

• The restaurants they take every visiting chef to—including one with one of Austria’s best wine lists.

• The Viennese dishes you absolutely have to try—and the best places to eat them.

• The best coffee houses, desserts, wine bars, and wineries just minutes from the city.

• How to experience a traditional Heuriger, Vienna’s legendary wine taverns.

• The best Viennese food products to bring home—and exactly where to buy them.

And so much more.

A Google Map with every recommendation is included at the end of the interview.

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This week, we’re in Tokyo with Endo Kazutoshi, the Michelin-starred sushi master behind Endo at the Rotunda and one of the leading Japanese chefs working outside Japan today.

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Born into a family of sushi chefs, Endo spent more than 15 years honing his craft in Japan before moving to London, where he opened Endo at the Rotunda in 2019. Just six months after opening, the restaurant earned a Michelin star, establishing him as one of the leading sushi chefs in Europe.

Most recently, Endo at the Rotunda won UK’s Best Restaurant at the GQ Food & Drink Awards and was named No. 1 in Harden’s Top 100 Best UK Restaurants. This month, Chef Endo opened another restaurant, ENDO, an intimate 10-seat omakase counter, accompanied by a bar, Moga, located just above.

Below, the award-winning chef reveals:

• Tokyo’s best sushi at different price points
• The essential Tokyo dishes and the best restaurants to experience them
• The best sake bars and traditional Japanese coffee shops
• Experiences and stores you can’t find anywhere else in the world
• And so much more

A Google Map with all of the locations is provided at the end of the interview.

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The Relisher is where the world’s top chefs reveal their favorite restaurants in their hometowns. This week, I met with Jacob Kear, the chef and owner of Michelin-starred LURRA° in Kyoto, Japan.

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The Japanese-American chef worked in the world’s leading kitchens, including NOMA in Copenhagen—the world’s top-rated restaurant at the time—and several Michelin-starred restaurants in Tokyo. In 2019, he opened his dream restaurant, LURRA°, and by 2020, Chef Kear earned his first Michelin star.

This is our number-one most-read interview and one of my top three favorite interviews of all time. Below, the award-winning chef shares:

• The restaurants you cannot miss in Kyoto and Osaka

• Where to experience the best tea and traditional Japanese sweets in Kyoto

• Must-try Osaka street foods and the best places to eat them

• Cocktail bars you cannot find anywhere else except Kyoto and Osaka

• Experiences you can only have in Kyoto and Osaka

• And so much more…

(A Google Map with all locations listed is provided at the end of the interview.)

Must-Visit Restaurants in Kyoto

I always like to begin with some background on Kyoto because it helps explain the city’s food culture and why I recommend specific places.

Many are surprised to learn that, as an inland city, Kyoto doesn’t have the same abundance of great sushi restaurants as Tokyo or Osaka. Historically, the lack of access to fresh fish led Kyoto to become famous for preserved foods, like pickles and preserved fish, which remain iconic to this day.

Kyoto is considered the capital of Japanese cuisine, known for kaiseki, a traditional multi-course meal, and kappo, its more casual variation. The city’s many shrines and temples also inspired shojin ryori, or monk food, a vegan cuisine deeply rooted in Buddhist philosophy.

When people ask for restaurant recommendations in Kyoto, I always suggest the must-visit spots below, which are also my personal favorites.

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This week, we’re in Los Angeles with Aitor Zabala, chef and owner of the three-Michelin-starred Somni, one of the first restaurants in Los Angeles history to hold three stars.

The Spanish chef trained at a murderers’ row of Spanish kitchens, including three-starred Akelarre in San Sebastián, before spending four years at elBulli under Ferran Adrià, where a chance encounter with José Andrés changed his life. He went on to serve as creative director of Andrés’ ThinkFoodGroup for a decade, then opened the original Somni inside The Bazaar in 2018, earning two Michelin stars within a year.

After the pandemic shuttered it, Zabala rebuilt Somni on his own in West Hollywood: a 14-seat counter that debuted in the Michelin Guide with three stars at once, making him the first Spanish chef ever to hold three stars outside Spain.

Below, Aitor shares:

• His favorite restaurants in Los Angeles

• The restaurants he takes every visiting chef

• The under-the-radar bakery that makes Somni’s bread, plus his go-to coffee shop

• His favorite restaurants in the world, from a Barcelona tasca to sardines grilled over an open fire on the beach in Málaga

• And so much more

(A Google Map with all of the locations mentioned is provided at the end of the interview.)

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This week, we’re in Tokyo with Santiago Fernandez, the head chef at two-Michelin-starred MAZ in Tokyo.

Chef Santiago has worked at some of the world’s top restaurants, including three-Michelin-starred Aponiente and Cocina Hermanos Torres in Spain. Following that, he served as Creative Chief at Central in Lima, named the best restaurant in the world. He was later appointed head chef of MAZ (Central’s sister restaurant in Tokyo), and under his leadership, MAZ earned two-Michelin stars shortly after opening.

This is by far my most comprehensive Tokyo edition. You won’t need to do any research on where to eat. It covers everything from the best sushi at every price point to the must-try Japanese dishes and the best places to experience them, and so much more. For me, it’s a phenomenal resource, and if I were planning a trip to Tokyo, I’d use only this.

What makes it even more interesting is that these are the places Santiago takes visiting chefs—an inside look at where the culinary world really eats in Tokyo, and now you can too.
A Google Map with all the locations is included at the end of the article.

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This week, we’re in Edinburgh with Tom Kitchin, chef-proprietor of The Kitchin, Scotland’s most celebrated restaurant.

Tom trained in Europe’s leading three-Michelin-star kitchens before opening The Kitchin in 2006. It earned a Michelin star just six months later, making him Scotland’s youngest Michelin-starred chef-proprietor at only 29. Nearly two decades on, the restaurant still holds that star, alongside five AA Rosettes, the highest rating awarded in the UK’s respected restaurant guide.

In addition to The Kitchin, Tom is the chef and owner of the gastropub The Scran & Scallie, which holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for excellent food at great value. He was also selected by Belmond to create the menu for its celebrated Royal Scotsman train as it journeys through the Scottish Highlands.

This one is brilliant — fascinating and incredibly useful. If I were headed to Edinburgh, I wouldn’t use anything else. Below Tom shares:

• The restaurants he sends every visiting chef to, including an elevated take on the fish-and-chip shop, with every kind of fish you can imagine and champagne

• The Scottish dishes you cannot leave Edinburgh without eating, and the best restaurants to try each one

• The must-visit, centuries-old whisky bars

• The Scottish products to bring home, including a whisky vinegar (that almost no one knows about), and where to buy it

• And so much more

A Google Map with all of the locations mentioned is provided at the end of the interview.

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This week, we’re in New York City with Dominique Roy, Chef De Cuisine and partner of the iconic, three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park.

Originally from Canada, Dominique trained under legendary three-Michelin-star chef Georges Blanc in France before representing Canada at both the Culinary World Cup and the Culinary Olympics.

At 25, he arrived in New York with a backpack and a bus ticket, knocked on the door of Eleven Madison Park, and cooked a piece of sea bass as his tryout. He got the job, and ten years later he runs one of the most celebrated kitchens on the planet alongside Daniel Humm: a restaurant that has held three Michelin stars for more than a decade, was named No. 1 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and became the first plant-based restaurant ever to earn three Michelin stars.

In this edition, Dominique reveals:

• His favorite NYC restaurants—and exactly what to order

• The must-visit NYC restaurants he takes visiting chefs to

• The best meal he’s had all year—and the restaurant he thinks will soon be impossible to get into

• Where to find NYC’s best pizza, bagels, cocktails, pastry, and coffee

• The new restaurants he’s most excited to try

A Google Map with all of the locations mentioned is provided at the end of the interview.

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This week, we’re in London with Jean-Philippe Blondet, one of the city’s leading chefs and Chef Patron of three-Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester.

Blondet has spent more than two decades working alongside Alain Ducasse, one of the world’s most celebrated chefs, whose restaurants have held more Michelin stars than almost any other chef in history. He trained in some of the group’s most prestigious kitchens, including the three-starred Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse at l’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco and Spoon in Hong Kong, before joining Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester in 2013. He quickly rose through the ranks to become Chef Patron, where he continues to lead the restaurant while maintaining its three Michelin stars.

Below, the Michelin-starred chef reveals his favorite restaurants in London, including where he personally loves to eat and the spots he recommends to chefs visiting the city, plus where to find the best cocktails and bakeries, and more.

(A Google Map with all listed locations is provided at the end of the interview.)

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This week, we’re in Basque Country with chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho, the chef-owner behind Michelin-starred restaurants Sabor and Legado in London.

Nieves is one of the most celebrated Spanish chefs working outside of Spain today. Her two London restaurants, Sabor and Legado, each hold a Michelin star, making her one of the few Spanish chefs outside of Spain to lead two Michelin-starred restaurants simultaneously. Earlier this year, she was also named Chef of the Year at the National Restaurant Awards in the UK.

Below, the Basque-born chef reveals:

• The must-visit restaurants she sends visiting chefs & friends to

• Basque Country’s best pintxo bars

• The Basque bakeries and desserts you can’t find anywhere else in the world

• The must-buy local Basque food products to bring home — and where to buy them

• And so much more

A Google Map with all of the mentioned locations is provided at the end of the interview.

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This week, we’re in Athens, Greece with Chef Petros Dimas, the Chef Patron of Makris Athens—widely regarded as one of the country’s top dining destinations.

Under Petros’ leadership, Makris earned its Michelin star within a year of opening. Most recently, it was named ‘Best Restaurant in Greece’ at the World Culinary Awards, received two Golden Hats from Athinorama, and was awarded three stars by the FNL Guide—three of Greece’s most prestigious restaurant awards and dining guides.

Below, the Michelin-starred chef shares the Athens restaurants he sends every visiting chef to—from a 1930s taverna where two grandmothers have been cooking for over forty years, to the wood-fired restaurant that changed Athens’ dining scene, the wine bar with the best Greek wine list in the country, the one ingredient that grows nowhere else on earth (and where to buy it), and much more.

(A Google Map with all of the locations mentioned is provided at the end of the interview.)

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This week, we’re in Istanbul with Chef Cenk Debensason, co-founder and chef-patron of Michelin-starred Arkestra, widely regarded as one of the city’s top restaurants.

Before opening Arkestra, Cenk worked at some of the world’s leading restaurants. He opened his restaurant in 2022, and within a year Arkestra earned its first Michelin star. Praised by the Michelin Guide as “an experience you won’t soon forget,” it is today one of Istanbul’s most sought-after reservations.

On a personal level, I’ve interviewed several Michelin-starred chefs in Istanbul, but I never published those interviews because I didn’t think the recommendations were good enough. Cenk’s, on the other hand, are exceptional. These are the places he takes the world’s leading chefs whenever they visit Istanbul.

Inside, Chef Cenk shares:

• His personal favorite restaurants in Istanbul, including the places he recommends to travelers

• The best Turkish food products to bring home, from world-famous pistachios to pomegranate molasses, and where to buy them

• The legendary baklava producer every chef visits before flying home—and how to visit the production facility

• How he’d spend the perfect day in Istanbul to the city’s most beautiful historic hammam

• How he’d plan a first trip to Istanbul and more

A Google Map with all of the mentioned locations is provided at the end of the interview.

Istanbul’s Must-Visit Restaurants

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This week, we’re in Copenhagen with one of the most respected figures in modern Nordic cuisine, Chef Rasmus Kofoed, the co-owner and head chef of the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Geranium in Copenhagen. In 2022, Geranium was ranked No. 1 on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list, earning the title of The World's Best Restaurant

Rasmus is also the only chef in history to win bronze, silver, and gold at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or, the world’s most renowned culinary competition, a rare achievement that cemented his reputation as one of the leading chefs of his generation.

Below, the Danish chef shares where he goes in Copenhagen, including restaurants, bakeries, and coffee spots, along with his must-visit restaurant recommendations for Copenhagen travelers. A Google Map with all the locations is included at the end of the article.

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This week, we’re in Paris with Christian Le Squer, the three-star executive chef of Le Cinq at the Four Seasons Hotel George V, where he has been for over a decade.

Before taking the helm at Le Cinq, Chef Le Squer spent more than twelve years as executive chef of the three-Michelin-starred Pavillon Ledoyen, establishing himself as one of Paris’s most important chefs. Today, he is one of only ten chefs in Paris to lead a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, and he has held three stars for over twenty years.

Below, the Parisian chef reveals all of his favorite places in Paris — from restaurants to boulangeries, chocolatiers, wine bars, and more. He also shares which restaurants he recommends to visiting chefs and friends coming to Paris. A Google Map with all of the locations mentioned is provided at the end of the interview.

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Originally dating back nearly 1,000 years, Castello di Casole was once a historic castle and aristocratic estate, and the setting is absolutely breathtaking. Set high on a hill in the Tuscan countryside outside Siena, the property sits within more than 3,200 acres of privately owned land filled with vineyards, olive groves, cypress trees, forests, and rolling hills stretching endlessly in every direction.

The best hotels understand how important the arrival experience is, and Castello di Casole absolutely delivers from the very beginning. As you drive through the winding Tuscan roads toward the estate, the castle slowly appears above the landscape in the distance. Even before arriving, the views alone are stunning and create an incredibly memorable first impression.

The beauty of the grounds themselves is equally unforgettable. Belmond properties are known for their gardens, but Castello di Casole’s are genuinely among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Near the main entrance and check-in area, stunning rose gardens overflow with color and fragrance, while the rest of the estate is filled with perfectly maintained flowers, lush greenery, and towering trees. It’s the kind of natural beauty that feels almost impossible to replicate anywhere else in the world and truly feels unique to Tuscany.

Despite the scale of the estate, what stood out to me most was the sense of peace and quiet throughout the property. For example, at night, the silence is almost surreal, and with so little around the estate, you can clearly see the stars. At the same time, the communal areas still felt lively and full of energy, creating a really nice balance between atmosphere and calm.

Accommodations

As you would expect from a luxury hotel of this caliber, the accommodations at Castello di Casole are incredibly pampering, with top-of-the-line everything. Oversized king beds are dressed in exceptionally soft linens, the bathrooms feature expansive walk-in showers with dual shower heads, and amenities such as Acqua di Parma toiletries and Dyson hair dryers are found throughout the rooms.

One thing I really loved is that the rooms don’t feel like traditional Tuscan hotel rooms. Many properties in the region lean heavily into rustic décor and darker interiors, but the rooms here feel fresher and more Italian chic. Velvet sofas, colorful furnishings, and contemporary details make the spaces feel bright and current without feeling disconnected from their surroundings.

The rooms are also filled with personal touches that give them real character. Assouline and Taschen books on Italy and Tuscany are placed throughout the accommodations, and espresso is served in beautiful Ginori 1735 porcelain cups — one of Italy’s most historic luxury porcelain houses, founded in Florence. It’s these details that make the rooms feel personal rather than simply luxurious.

And regardless of where you stay, the views are a highlight. At many luxury hotels, only a portion of the rooms enjoy exceptional views. At Castello di Casole, Tuscany is right outside of every window.

Dining

Breakfast is one of my favorite parts of staying at a luxury hotel, and Castello di Casole absolutely delivers.

Served either inside the elegant dining room or outside in the courtyard, breakfast is the kind of experience you’ll want to enjoy slowly. The Italian coffee is excellent, but it was the smaller touches that stood out to me: a fresh juice station where juices are made to order, aged Parmesan on the breakfast spread, and even bottles of Veuve Clicquot Champagne for those wanting to start the day with a glass of bubbly.

For lunch, Emporio del Castello is the place to be. The menu focuses on Italian classics done very well, including wood-fired pizzas, homemade pastas, grilled meats, and fresh seasonal dishes, all paired with an excellent selection of Italian wines and Champagnes.

As good as the food is, the real highlight is the setting. The Emporio terrace is one of the most beautiful lunch spots I’ve ever experienced, with sweeping views across the Tuscan countryside. Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, it’s worth stopping by for lunch.

A very nice touch is that the hotel has its own vegetable and herb gardens, and many of the herbs used throughout the restaurants are grown on-site.

For aperitivo, Bar Visconti is a must. Many of the cocktails are made with herbs picked from the estate’s gardens. You can enjoy your cocktails either inside the elegant bar or on the outdoor terrace.

Aperitivo here was one of my favorite moments of the stay. Watching the sunset over the landscape was so, so beautiful.

For dinner, guests can choose between Emporio del Castello‘s evening menu or Tosca, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant. Led by Executive Chef Daniele Sera, Tosca showcases refined Tuscan cuisine built around seasonal ingredients and local producers.

Facilities & Experiences

One of the biggest surprises about Castello di Casole is just how much there is to do on the property. While Tuscany is filled with beautiful towns, wineries, and villages worth exploring, the hotel offers enough activities that you could easily spend several days on the estate without ever feeling the need to leave.

The centerpiece of the property is the pool, and it’s one of the most breathtaking hotel pools I’ve ever experienced — you can easily spend the entire day here. Depending on where you’re sitting, you’ll find yourself looking out over vineyards, rolling hills, forests, and even a traditional Tuscan village sitting on a nearby hill. Every angle offers a different view of the surrounding landscape, making it difficult to stop staring out at the scenery.

For those looking to unwind further, the Essere Spa provides a peaceful retreat within the estate. The spa features treatment rooms, a sauna, steam room, relaxation areas, and a menu of treatments inspired by Tuscany’s natural ingredients and wellness traditions.

Beyond the facilities, there are countless experiences available to guests. From wine tastings and pizza dough classes to hiking and biking, there is more than enough to fill several days without ever leaving the estate.

One experience that food lovers shouldn’t miss is truffle hunting. Guests can join expert guides and trained dogs to search for truffles in the surrounding countryside, allowing guests to experience one of Tuscany’s most celebrated culinary traditions.

I was traveling with young children, so it wasn’t practical for us this time around, but it’s absolutely something I would have booked otherwise. Best of all, the hotel can arrange everything for you.

Who This Hotel Is Best For

Castello di Casole is ideal for travelers who enjoy destination hotels, places where the hotel itself becomes the trip. Beautiful Tuscan towns and wineries are nearby, but this is one of those rare hotels where you could easily spend several days on the estate without feeling the need to leave.

It’s also an ideal hotel for couples, honeymooners, and anyone celebrating something special. The setting is incredibly romantic, from long breakfasts to aperitivo at sunset and quiet evenings under the stars.

At the same time, it also works very well for families. The estate is enormous, there’s plenty of space for children to move around, and there are enough activities, from the pool and gardens to cooking experiences and outdoor activities throughout the estate, that you don’t feel confined to one place.

Families also feel very welcomed here. When we arrived, the hotel had prepared a brand-new box of baby toiletries in the room, along with stuffed animals and even a little bandana for our baby. I’ve stayed at many high-end hotels with children before, and this was by far the most pampering and the most gifts I’ve ever seen a hotel prepare for a baby. It made the experience feel personal rather than simply family-friendly.

This week, we’re in Amsterdam with Bas van Kranen, chef-owner of Michelin-starred Flore, one of the Netherlands’ leading fine dining restaurants.

After training in some of Europe’s most influential kitchens, Bas became head chef of De Leuf at just 23 years old, where he helped the restaurant regain its Michelin star. He was later named Gault&Millau’s “Talentful Chef of the Year.” Today, Flore holds two Michelin stars, along with a Michelin Green Star for sustainability.

“I think a lot of the hyped places disappoint in the end,” he says. “I always like to look for places where you find personality, but that are equally delicious.”

Below, the acclaimed chef shares:

• The Amsterdam restaurants you cannot miss
• The wine bar the city’s leading chefs and sommeliers go to
• The best cheese shop in town and the Dutch cheeses you need to try
• The city’s best coffee shops and bakeries
• Experiences you can only have in Amsterdam
• And more

(A Google Map with all locations mentioned is provided at the end of the interview.)

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This week, we’re in Comporta, Portugal with Gonçalo Pessoa, the owner of Sublime Comporta. Just an hour from Lisbon, Comporta is quietly becoming one of Europe’s most talked-about destinations. His hotel, Sublime Comporta, has played a key role in this rise and was recently recognized by The New York Times as one of its “52 Places to Visit” and by Forbes Travel Guide as one of the world’s 10 best “Table to Farm” dining experiences.

Below, the hotelier shares his personal list of where to eat, along with his tips on how to have the best experience of Comporta—in other words, exactly why this place belongs on your travel list. A Google Map with all of the locations is provided at the end of the interview.

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This week, we’re in Lisbon with one of the city’s top chefs, António Galapito, chef and owner of Prado Restaurant—widely regarded as one of the city’s best—and Prado Wine Bar.

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Widely regarded as one of Lisbon's best restaurants, Prado was the city's first farm-to-table restaurant. It is recognized by the Michelin Guide and included in the World's 50 Best Discovery, a guide to exceptional restaurants from The World's 50 Best Restaurants. Most importantly, every Lisbon chef I've interviewed has named Prado among their favorite restaurants in the city.

“I think Lisbon’s culinary scene has really bloomed over the past six or seven years. It feels like we’ve finally had the chance to showcase Portuguese ingredients, cuisine, and culture to the world.”

Below, the local chef reveals his favorite Lisbon restaurants, the restaurants he recommends to chefs visiting the city, the Portuguese products to bring home (and the best places to buy them), wine bars, and so much more.

A Google Map with all locations listed is provided at the end of the interview.

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